So before I show you my final pieces from my second making project of my second year at uni, I thought I would post a few photos that I have taken of some pages of my sketchbook, to show the ideas, thoughts and inspiration behind it :)
I started out by looking at the 'Nostalgia Of Mud' Collection by Vivienne Westwood; 1983. I loved the colours used, and the baggy/oversized nature of the clothing. The collection itself was (I believe) inspired by a particular subculture from the 80's, where people would borrow clothes or get random things from charity shops (that wouldn't necessarily fit them) and wear them oversized, tied up with belts, tucked in or worn completely different from the original purpose of the clothes!
I also had huge inspiration from the campaign 'All Walks Beyond The Catwalk'- A campaign run by a group of people including Caryn Franklin (editor of ID magazine- she came and gave a lecture about the campaign at uni!) that encourages the diversity of models within the fashion industry, wishing to include a range of ages, sizes, heights, races and body types.
I really liked the idea of designing something other than the standard mannequin industry size 12 (although these mannequins are more of a UK 8) to include a wider range of women so that fashion could be inclusive instead of exclusive to a particular body type.
I then started experimenting with textures, textiles and re-using various things, including lace/crochet doileys...
...using cotton garden string to knit with...
...looking at how blankets could be used to make a garment...
...looking at an artist called Christien Meindertma who does beautiful things with oversize wool and giant knitting needles...
Then I tried my own version of giant knitting, using some sharpened cricket stumps (thanks to the workshop men at uni!) and made some 'giant wool' by knitting a a few metres on the knitting machine, and using it as the yarn. As tricky as it was to figure out, it actually turned out pretty well... but was waaay too time consuming to try and make a garment out of!
Then using some inspirational images, I tried to get a colour scheme going, with the use of antique/sepia tones, rust oranges, burgundys, browns and neutrals.
I found alot of these colours were present in old maps, so I experimented with some of them.
Going on from old maps & the reuse/recycle ethos of the Nostalgia of Mud collection, I started to look at junk, and in particular, junk shops. I found the random collections of items really interesting, and the colours and shapes that could be taken from the images.
Looking at more junk, this time particularly at lampshades & Mary Katrantzou
Then I looked at an artist called Joseph Cornell, who makes pieces of art from random items he finds lying around, and at junk shops/charity shops & makes interesting displays with them:
...made my own page of random 'junk' items
Going back to looking at shapes and designs of knitwear from the 80's
More knitting samples from cotton garden string...
And finally here are the rough designs that I came up with, including pictures of experimentation and the making process...
Loose knit baggy cardigan knitted completely from re-cycled cotton garden string:
(note: the button holes were keyholes and the buttons made from tiny rusty keys!)
Design of a baggy/off the shoulder top, with a necklace made from rusty keys which were found in a junk shop:
Design for a pair of hand knitted baggy trousers with a 'paper bag' waist, synched in with a belt. Also a few knitting/tension samples:
Experimenting with oversize jersey tops and the shape of the knitted trousers using jersey (as they were to be lined with jersey anyway!):
Tailored trousers/'cigarette pants' with an adjustable waistband that could be adjusted to fit the wearer:
Experimentation and design of a top and crochet doiley overlay that were both fully adjustable to fit the wearer- could be made bigger or smaller to fit:
So after all that research, I decided to design (see designs above) clothing that was fully adjustable and 'Freesize'- therefore taking the 'All Walks' campaign concept into consideration and making clothes that could be worn by a variety of sizes (UK 8-10, 12-14, 16-18). I also had set myself a specification that required the use of either organic/recycled fabrics and components. This was rather tricky to design for!
I'll be showing you the final designs and clothes in the next few posts....
:)
Hope you've had a good weekend!
x